Jackson Hole, UT

Tips: 之前一直都是开车去黄石的,所以也屡次路过Jackson hole这个小镇,虽然知道这里有个小机场,但想来机票一定很贵。直到这次来滑雪,发现如果用UA的mileage换,还是会有deal很划得来。难怪这里被评为全美最accessible的ski resort。

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Patagonia之 攀登#向导

说起爬雪山,本来是不在我的计划之中的,但同行老大对雪山有着无与伦比的执着,便有了这个Tronador的行程。之所以选这个山完全是google的功劳,作为阿根廷境内最热门的入门登山,Tronador名列榜首,自然也最容易从搜索引擎中脱颖而出。虽然有一些冰川经验,但环境不熟,语言不通的情况下,请向导还是必须的。大约是太多欧洲人和美国人过来登山,所以阿根廷高山向导市场还是蛮正规的,网上可以查到的几家都是持证上岗(UIAGM/IFMGA certified)能力和经验应该都是有保证的,价格嘛比美国欧洲便宜点但有限。当然什么地方都有不屑于游戏规则的人,比如努力省钱的我们和我们那毫不在乎赚钱的向导N。

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一般跨国的向导都是通过中介公司联系的,这是我头一次找高山向导,所以就从网络下手,联系的一家说是那个时间没空,但很好心的给我发了一个名单,简单明了,就是向导的名字和email,于是群发骚扰,N回信给我,出价竟然低于正常价格的一半儿还要少,虽然心理有点打鼓,但看到他自己的网站还是非常专业的,成员就俩人,N向导和他老婆,夫妻店反倒是让人放心了一些(个人觉得有家有娃的人更靠谱儿一点)。几封email后,商定出发前一晚在我们住的青年旅馆碰头,由于大部分装备都是我们自己带的,所以除了和向导确认行程外他也要检查一下我们的装备是否合格。

向导N是那种放到人堆里一下子就能找到的人,气场独特,按他自己的话说就是 “I’m a mountain guy”。第一面见到他,明朗的五官,黝黑的皮肤,风尘仆仆的机车服加上那被大风吹的乱糟糟的头发,倒是不折不扣像是刚从山里出来。原本是计划三天的行程,N说两天就够了,而且之后两天预报天气不错,如果后天无法登顶,再之后天气只会变糟,所以就不用想了,只是如果我们自己体力不好之类的要多一天恢复下山也可以。检查了装备计划好了行程,我们自觉要付订金给他,结果N非常随性,来了句付不付订金,付多少你们自己随意,我无所谓。我们瞬间傻掉,这么不在乎佣金的还真是头一遭,本来是省钱第一的我们也不好意思真一分订金不给,还是先付了一部分。N则连数都没数,拿了钱顺手往口袋里一塞,就see you tomorrow了。我和老大相视一笑,这向导还真是奇葩。当然奇葩的向导自然有奇葩的故事。

一清早N开着他那辆小面包车突突突的来接我们,虽然开始没觉得这地盘超低四个轮子超小的小破车有啥不妥,但没过多久,我们就从柏油路上下来开始了无比颠簸的土路,更强悍的是,N向导在国家公园门口注册好,直接开进了在美国通常只有四驱车才开的山间小路。顿时觉得向导的车技和那丁了桄榔乱响小车真不是盖的。。。

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大家都说阿根廷人热情善谈,向导N也不例外,两个小时的车程,聊着聊着就声情并茂的给我们讲起他和他老婆那颇具戏剧性的爱情故事。第一次见面,他老婆居然是他的客户,当看到我们质疑和惊讶的目光时,N狡捷的一笑,辩解到自己是非常有职业操守的,虽然来自瑞士的F很漂亮,但他还不至于对自己的客户下手。只是行程结束后,F一个女孩孤身一人,他觉得挺可怜的,便邀请她一起加入他和他哥哥的晚饭,“当然”,N补充道,“你知道的,我哥哥是不会出现在饭局上的”。虽然是有意安排,N也没觉得是约会,只是和F聊的很开心。之后F继续她的patagonia之旅,F回到瑞士后,N开始收到F的书信,一封接一封,直到最后,F写到,“N, find a telephone, I want to call you!”。N说着,回忆着模仿起自己当时惊讶的表情,“你知道,我就是个爱登山的人,背着包四处为家,那个时候没有手机,哪儿找什么电话去。” 我相信,N还是找了电话的。过了不久,F就打电话给N说,她有二十多天的假期,想要过来阿根廷找他爬山,N说自己也没多想,就满口答应。直到接到F住下,F便开心的脱光光了,这回轮到N傻掉了,
N:“你这是干啥?”
F:“你觉得我飞了三十多个小时从欧洲过来找你,是为了啥?”
N:“可是,可是,我已经有女朋友了”
N说,她是个非常独立的女人,什么都没讲,穿上衣服就走了,自己在patagonia又度了个假就回瑞士了。我觉得F真的很酷。他们的关系也就算冷了下来,直到之后N攒了些钱,和前任分了手,与兄弟第一次跑去欧洲爬山。想起F就在瑞士,想邀她一起,由于怕破坏了和兄弟的冒险之旅,N先征求了一下朋友的意见,说是想要邀请一个之前认识的女孩加入他们的行程。他朋友则一句废话没说,直接了当问“她有车不?” N解释到,在欧洲爬山和美国一样,没车寸步难行。

N:“于是,我就非常白痴的打电话给F,说我现在在法国,你有车没?你要不要过来和我一起爬山。”
F:“你以为我跟你一样背个包四处流浪啊!我当然有车,正好也有假期,那就一起爬山咯。”

后来N才了解到,F是一家医院的主治医师,家里条件也很好,算是颇有些社会地位的。而这趟旅程中,法国的郊外,灿烂的星空以及夜色中的牡丹,N和F也算是有情人终成眷属。之后,和所有跨国恋一样,F有假期跑去阿根廷看N,或者N攒了些钱来欧洲看F,来来回回几次后,N觉得不能再这样下去了,便对F说,“我们结婚吧,但我不喜欢欧洲,你跟我回阿根廷吧。” 而最浪漫的是,F就真的辞了工作,不顾家人的反对,跟着N来阿根廷了。有了家,N也决定扎根儿落脚,在bariloche的郊外湖边用不多的钱买了一块儿地,然后自己亲手盖了个小木屋,说着,N指着远方的湖,“就在那儿”。F到了阿根廷也拿到了向导的资质,不过他们有了自己的双胞胎后,F就很少接向导的活,而是在家做翻译照顾小孩。
N继续说,“我老婆说我就是个疯子,接活儿每次都给很低的价格,可是我就是很喜欢登山,就是喜欢在大山里晃,钱多少对我来讲差不多就成。不过,我老婆能嫁给我,大概神经也没正常到哪儿去~~” N自我调侃,“生活虽然不容易,我还是觉得挺幸运的,能做自己爱做的事养活自己,挺好。”

比起N戏剧性的人生故事,我们的攀登倒是显得顺利的没什么可讲的。N继续着他无拘无束的随性,放着弯弯曲曲铺好的trail不走,一路带我们抄近道翻越枯木乱草直直的上到了第一晚休息的Refugio。也不知道他是交友广泛还是天生爱搭讪,一路上碰到几个队伍都跑去跟人家聊个天儿,至于聊的啥,不懂西语的我们也无从知晓。

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Refugio里有除了有我们还有两个从BA跟向导过来爬山的人,一些徒步的,滑野雪的。主人是个阿根廷美女,会讲英文,做的饭也很好吃。茶足饭饱,N说明天天气会很热,四点出发,快上快下,最晚下午三点必须撤回这里,不然过冰川裂缝太危险。我本来提议保险起见再早些出发,不过直接被N否决了,说是晚上黑咕隆咚爬没意思。但从转天下来的最后一段一脚脚深陷的经历,我还是觉得如果能早一个小时出发会更好些。既然请了向导,自然就听人家的。N倒是对我们很有信心,他和另外一组的向导协调后决定一起出发,但会在保证在他们到达最后一段单行的需要设绳保护路段时,我们已经下撤回来把路让给他们。我只能说上天太眷顾我的这趟旅程了,天气好的不能再好,本来山峰的垭口向来是大风,也是攀登最难的一段,不过我们到的时候晴空万里,微风拂面的,丝毫不费力。登顶后咔嚓咔嚓留念后,赶快赶着下山。回过望去去,山顶居然被一片云笼罩,顿时庆幸自己跟的向导很麻利,也为不由的为后面的一组人感到惋惜。天气果然很热,上来时不是很明显的裂缝,下去时都变得迷宫般张牙舞爪的,N很迅速小心跨过绕过无数裂缝,毫不停歇的一口气把我俩拿绳子拽下了山。回到了refugio还不到中午。午饭休息后,N同学大步流星带我们下山,向导大约也觉得我们是经常爬山的人,所以完全不控制节奏,几乎是一路小跑下山的,我和老大在后面紧赶慢赶,要不是碰上一些人,向导停下来跟他们聊天,估计我们连喝水的时间都没有。后来我和老大一致觉得向导是老婆赶着回家吃晚饭,不过很早就回到城市,我们到也乐得逛个街,下个馆子。

哦,最后解释一下这个名字吧,Tronador,英文里Thunderer的意思,而着咆哮之声来自于不断掉落的冰塔,我们一路上轰隆声也是不绝于耳,如雪崩般震耳的声音还是颇为心惊胆颤的。

Photos from Justin

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Some interesting “Top Ten”

Top 10 reasons


The top ten reasons climbing is better than love.

By James Jay Klavetter

10.     The bond between you and your partner is more apparent.
9.      Your partnership doesn't often end up making children.
8.      Your partner and yourself are doing something together you 
        BOTH enjoy.
7.      Your partner usually doesn't throw things at you when there is
        an arguement.
6.      Your partner doesn't get mad at you if you forget the
        anniversary of your first climb together.
5.      If your partner leaves you, it is relatively easy to find
        another.
4.      You don't usually feel like jumping off a cliff if you fail at
        a climb.
3.      On most climbs, you can protect against something REALLY bad
        happening.
2.      Communication is easier and surer (even if windy).

and...

1.      If there is a fall, broken bones mend faster and more 
        completely than broken hearts.

Why climbing is better than sex.

A man's perspective, by John Byrnes

1.  When you climb, you only have to get yourself to the peak.
2.  If you climb with someone other than your regular partner, no one gets mad,
   in fact, you can all three climb together and share protection!
3.  You can reuse your protection, and someone else even cleans for you,
    provided you don't put it in too deep.
4.  There IS such a thing as being too overhung.
5.  You can get belayed without first bekissing.
6.  A good hand jam can be as satisfying as any other kind of jam.
7.   No matter how many times you fall off, you can always climb back on.
8.  Having a belay slave is not a criminal offense.
9.  The rocks never expect you to call afterward.
10. Friction is a positive quality when you're climbing.
11. The rocks don't care if you show up late.
12. The rocks don't complain after 7 or 8 pitches.
13. When you're climbing, a good two-finger jam will support your body weight.
14. Your belayer never hesitates when you yell "TAKE!"
15. When you're climbing, weird body positions are considered "cool".
16. The rocks don't scream for help when you try for the on-sight flash.
17. Your climbing partner doesn't complain when you don't want to do cracks
    anymore and want to do some face.
18. A three-finger pocket isn't too big.
19. You don't have to wait an hour after getting pumped-out.

A woman's perspective, by Ilana Stern

1)  The rock is always hard.
2)  Rocks are never busy watching football when you'd rather climb.
3)  Rocks don't complain about the kind of protection you want to use.
4)  You can go climbing with another woman and nobody will call
    you names or hassle you.
5)  You can use ropes and harnesses and nobody will think you're kinky.
6)  You can go climbing any time of the month.
7)  It's over when *you* reach the peak.
8)  You won't die of embarrassment if your mother finds your rock gear.
9)  If it's in too deep, you can yank on a nut.
10) Nobody ever got pregnant rock climbing!
11) If you need something REAL BIG, you can always put in a Big Bro'!

 

Upper Peninsula Road Trip, Mi

不知道王勃同学当年写下“秋水共长天一色”是如何的心境,但当我看到这个景色时,无比清晰的想到这句诗。

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说起来这次北密的红叶之旅不算太顺利,虽然几经计划,时间上算是peak,但是老天爷不配合,一路阴雨延绵,大风狂作,政府部门也关门大吉,很多地方无法进入。

然秋色依旧绚烂

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Kalalau Trail,Kauai, HI, 3d2n, 22mi

Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Hawaii, United States

By Peter Potterfield

Ke’e Beach to Kalalau Valley

Round-Trip: 22 miles, 3 to 5 days

When to Go: May to September for drier weather; April or October for more solitude

The finest coastal hike in the world, this rugged route through Kauai’s impressive Nā Pali Coast will challenge you physically with tropical heat and steep trails, and scare you with exposure on muddy slopes. But after a day of slogging 11 miles through the fluted cliffs above surf that crashes like howitzer fire on the coast below, you are rewarded with a view of the impossibly serene mile-long arc of golden Kalalau Beach along the shimmering Pacific. The Kalalau Valley itself holds fairy-tale waterfalls and lush tropical jungle, well worthy of exploration, but the highlight is camping right on the beach, with the Western Pacific before you, reflecting the setting sun.

Insider Tip: It’s hot, and you’ll be tempted, but don’t even think about cooling off with a swim at Hanakapi’ai Beach on the way in. All those small, makeshift memorials are erected in the memory of hikers who thought they might enjoy wading in and were immediately swept out to sea by the violent rips.

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梦幻的小岛之旅,游到了无人沙滩,抓到了小龙虾,看到了美丽的夕阳,不能要求更多了。Photo by Mistpeak

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